When I asked Mykola Kushnir, the director of the Jewish Museum in Chernivtsi (Czernowitz), how I could see the wall paintings in the former synagogue of Novoselitsa, he invited me spontaneously to go there with him today. A really nice and generous offer – especially as Mykola has the key to the synagogue. Thanks, Mykola, for this wonderful excursion – the last on this journey!
With us are Janne, a volunteer of Action Reconciliation, and Silke, a scholarship holder at the University of Czernowitz and former volunteer at a work-camp in the Jewish cemetery.
“We can make a small detour via Sadagora and look at what the construction works do,” says Mykola. This refers to the works at the former synagogue of the rabbi of Sadagora, once part of an important Hasidic court. In fact, we see that a new copper roof was installed. The terrain is however closed and construction works seem to have come to a standstill again.
We leave and pass through Bojani. There too, has been a Hasidic court. However, nothing of it remained. After a few kilometers we reach Novoselitsa.
The synagogue is barely recognizable as such. A simple functional building in which a pioneer club was housed in Soviet times. Only on one side something is still visible of the original decoration. The murals were discovered by accident during restoration works some years ago. The Association of Jewish Communities and Organizations of Ukraine acquired then the building and is now trying to raise the necessary funds to save the building and the murals.
Mykola notices that the padlock of the front door no longer works. It is completely rusted from the inside. A man from in town has the duplicate key, he also tries – unsuccessfully. The lock needs to be replaced anyway. Without further ado, the door is broken up and later a new lock fitted. In front of us in the semi-darkness of the synagogue are the rare wall paintings. Cautiously we move forward and look around. We see a large zodiac on the ceiling and representations of biblical scenes and cities on the walls. A vanished world speaks quietly to us.
We make a detour to the Jewish cemetery. That proves surprisingly to be surrounded by a solid wall. Within this wall is a house that is guarded by two angry dogs, one of them looks pretty dangerous. On our ringing nobody responds. We circle around the cemetery, but unsuccessful. It is impossible to get through. I have no choice but to shoot a few pictures over the wall.
Back in Czernowitz, we see that in front of the House of Culture – the former Jewish National House, in which the Jewish Museum is located – a crowd has gathered. One of the men who were killed on Maidan in Kyiv, has been brought to his hometown Czernowitz to be buried. The coffin has been brought to the House of Culture, hundreds of people want to express their grief. There it is again, the hard Ukrainian today.
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